Bob & Sarah Smith visit
Cumbria's Wasdale Head Inn.
Nestling in the furthest reaches of Wasdale, a remote valley
in Cumbria that is home to both the deepest lake and the
highest mountain in England, sits the Wasdale Head Inn.
Birthplace of British rock climbing, the hotel is steeped in
a unique history that haunts this remarkable place. Ever
since we first stumbled through the portals of this fine
hostelry we have been in love with it and have returned
every year for some marvelous holidays. “But what about
the beer?” I hear you cry.
A good range of real ales is always on offer and during our
stay we sampled all of them: Jennings
Cumberland Ale (4%) and Cockerhoop (4.6%), Yates Wasd’ale
(4.3%), Hesket Newmarket Kern’s Knott Cracking Stout
(5.6%), Derwent Mutineers (4.1%) and Mountaineers (4.1%),
and Barngates Cracker Ale (4.2%). All of these beers are
brewed in Cumbria and two of them (Wasd’ale and
Mountaineers) are specially brewed for the pub.
During 1999 the pub held it’s 149th beer festival. In fact
it was their 4th 149th Beer Festival. Confused? Let me
explain. Each year the local community hold a competition to
find the world’s biggest liar. This is in honour of the
first landlord of the pub, a certain Will Ritson, who was
the original holder of this title in the 1870’s. The
present manager, Howard Christie, won the competition in
1998 and the pub staff upholds the tradition at every
opportunity. So the 1999 festival was in fact the 4th, the
same as Newark’s! |
The public (walker’s) bar, named after the
fore-mentioned Will Ritson, is unsophisticated but
welcoming. The décor is traditional with lots of panelling
and solid old furniture. The bar meals are good value and in
the simple ’home cooked’ style. A very welcome place at
the end of one of the many demanding walks in the immediate
area.
Although the inn is very popular all year round, its
remoteness keeps away the massed ranks of tourists that
swamp other parts of the Lake District, and demands some
planning on the part of visitors. Any effort made getting
there is rewarded in kind as you drive down the increasingly
spectacular Wasdale Valley towards the inn. You cannot fail
to be moved by the sight of the 2000 ft high Wasdale screes
sweeping down into Wastwater lake. Ahead, with its summit in
the clouds, Scafell Pike looks down over its less lofty
neighbours and at the end of the valley more mountains form
a seemingly impenetrable guard. Believe me – a truly
magical place.
Apr. '00 |
|
